I have wasted dozens of hours of my life trying to resolve artifacts in my wood cuts that were just a product of the ox being a flimsy machine. Typically the more rigid and refined in machine quality you go the less hassle you'll have. If you're looking for less hassle then I suggest running away from DIY machine kits that utilize nylon belts and plastic wheels sliding over aluminum for your machine. So I can throw something together on my work computer and then it's available on my shop computer when I get down there.īut so far the shape oko has been fantastic and I don't regret the purchase price which is about $2100
Carvewright woodcarving machine software#
The design software that carbide gives you is garbage I use the easel product which pretty much lets me design anywhere on a computer and then the design is always available in the cloud on my easel account.
That said I love my shapeoko and I've been making a ton of shit with that since I got it 2 weeks ago. I was considering spending the extra $1000 for that badd ass all aluminum mill right product but I went with the shape oko XXL because the work area is huge and all of The hardware in terms of the X and y-axis are made from a much sturdier aluminum product than the X carve, as well as the belts are thicker.īut the mill right products are great because they have the screws instead of belts which just makes your tolerances a lot smaller. This is exactly the place I found myself a few months ago when I was trying to decide on my CNC machine.
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